Tracing Ancient Echoes on Orkney
Yesterday, we arrived in Kirkwall, the small yet characterful capital of the Orkney Islands. Located off the northeastern coast of Scotland, Orkney feels remote in the best way – wild, open, and steeped in history. Stone buildings line the streets of Kirkwall, and the town is dominated by the red sandstone St Magnus Cathedral, a striking 12th-century landmark that immediately anchors the past to the present.
We joined an excursion to one of the most iconic sites of prehistoric Europe: the Ring of Brodgar. Standing on a narrow strip of land between two lochs, this Neolithic stone circle is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The scale is impressive – originally composed of 60 stones, 36 still remain, some over two meters tall. There’s no modern signage or barriers, just raw history in the open landscape.
The atmosphere was quiet, windswept, and timeless. It’s not hard to imagine ancient rituals here, surrounded by loch water and moody skies. Unlike more commercial sites, Brodgar feels untouched – no fences, no crowds. Just space to walk, reflect, and feel small beneath the Orkney sky.
Orkney is more than just one site – it’s a whole archipelago of stories carved in stone and layered in time. We’ll carry this sense of scale and silence with us as we continue the journey.
Practical Travel Tips for Orkney Visitors
Getting There:
You can reach Orkney by ferry (from Scrabster, Aberdeen, or Gills Bay) or by air (daily flights from Inverness, Edinburgh, or Glasgow to Kirkwall). If you’re bringing a car, the ferry from Scrabster to Stromness is a popular choice.
Best Time to Visit:
Late spring to early autumn (May–September) offers the best weather, with long daylight hours and open sites. July and August are busiest, but still calm compared to mainland tourist areas.
Costs:
Orkney is moderately priced. A mid-range hotel or B&B costs around £90–£130 per night. Meals at local restaurants or pubs are usually £12–£20 per person. Entry to the Ring of Brodgar is free, as it’s maintained by Historic Environment Scotland as an open-air monument.
Where to Stay:
- The Storehouse, Kirkwall – Stylish boutique stay in the heart of town with great food.
- Lynnfield Hotel – Traditional comfort near the Highland Park Distillery.
- The Ferry Inn, Stromness – A great base if you arrive by ferry, with a welcoming local feel.
- For budget options, look into Orkney Hostel or local self-catering cottages if you’re staying longer.
Getting Around:
Car rental is the most flexible way to explore the islands. Public buses are available but limited. Guided tours to sites like Skara Brae, Maeshowe, and Brodgar are also available from Kirkwall.
Related: A Journey to Skara Brae · Cawdor Castle