Faial - Jan Madeus

A Hike Through the Landscape of Capelinhos Volcano, Faial

Today’s journey took us to one of the most dramatic and geologically fascinating places in the Azores: the Capelinhos Volcano on the western tip of Faial Island. It’s a landscape born from fire and sea, a place where nature has rewritten the map within living memory. What now feels like solid ground once rose violently from the Atlantic.

From Eruption to Exploration

Our adventure began with a scenic one-hour bus ride from Horta, Faial’s lively capital. As we approached the western coast, the terrain gradually shifted — green hills gave way to stark volcanic soil, and the colors turned to ash grey and rusty black. We arrived at the Capelinhos Volcano, which erupted between 1957 and 1958 in one of the most significant volcanic events of the 20th century in the Azores.

This eruption lasted for over 14 months, creating a new landmass just off the coast. Over time, this newly formed terrain connected with the island, reshaping Faial’s western shoreline. The destructive force buried homes and landscapes, but also created a raw and hauntingly beautiful environment unlike any other on the archipelago.

Hiking Through the Volcanic Landscape

We set off on a roughly 2.5-hour hike that brought us up close to this still-young terrain. The landscape remains rugged and stark — a palette of black sand, hardened lava, and sparse vegetation that speaks to the area’s recent and violent origin. Along the way, we passed ruins of houses once buried by ash, silent reminders of the eruption’s power and its impact on local communities.

The trail led us past an old whaling port, once vital to the island’s economy, and along the coastal cliffs with stunning views out over the Atlantic. The sea seemed endless, framed by the dark volcanic ridges and the wind-shaped rock formations.

One of the highlights was reaching the Capelinhos Lighthouse. Severely damaged during the eruption, it has since been restored and now stands as a striking monument to both destruction and resilience. The nearby Interpretive Center, partially buried in ash, offers a fascinating look at the history, science, and human stories surrounding the eruption (highly recommended for a deeper understanding, if time allows).

Arrival in Varadouro: From Fire to Tranquility

Our hike ended in the peaceful coastal village of Varadouro, known for its natural swimming pools formed by ancient lava flows. The contrast couldn’t be more striking — after the otherworldly terrain of Capelinhos, Varadouro welcomes visitors with mild weather, scenic ocean views, and a sense of calm.

This region is also known for viticulture — the volcanic soil and favorable microclimate make it an ideal spot for growing grapes. In summer, the area draws many locals and visitors looking to relax in nature and bathe in the clear, mineral-rich Atlantic waters.

We returned to Horta by bus, tired but deeply moved by the elemental forces we had walked through.

Practical Travel Tips for Visiting Capelinhos & Faial

Start Point: Tours to Capelinhos typically depart from Horta, the island’s main town.
Gear: Wear sturdy hiking shoes and bring water; the trail is exposed and the terrain can be rough.
Best Time to Visit: Late spring through early autumn offers mild temperatures and the clearest views.
Don’t Miss: The Capelinhos Volcano Interpretation Center is an architectural gem and rich in content.
Photography Tip: Early morning or late afternoon light enhances the textures and colors of the volcanic landscape beautifully.
Accommodation: Horta offers several cozy guesthouses and boutique hotels with views of the marina or nearby Pico Island.

The Capelinhos hike is not just a walk — it’s a journey through time, geology, and resilience. Standing on land that didn’t exist just decades ago is a humbling reminder of the earth’s ever-changing face. For anyone seeking a deeper connection to the Azores beyond their lush green hills and crater lakes, this experience is unforgettable.